One sunny day in Lille
I felt extremely privileged having been gifted the opportunity to spend a day of work familiarising myself with the often less well know city of Lille. Perched right on the French Belgian border, the city that in 2004 had bestowed upon it, perhaps the most befitting accolade, of becoming the European capital of culture.
Lille over the course of history has been besieged and swapped hands between the imperial powers of the Spanish, Dutch and Belgians, before finally finding its current French status after King Louis XIV laid claim to the city in 1667. Lille’s unstable past has led to a city that has two very distinct characters. The oldest part of the city known since the early 20th century as ‘Vieux Lille’ meaning rather aptly, ‘Old Lille’ is home to some of Lille’s most breathtaking architecture, harking back to its former Belgian ownership. You could quite easily be mistaken for believing that you had walked off the train across the border in Flanders, with its stunning marriage of tall narrow brick buildings and uneven cobbles, giving you a glimpse into Lille’s Flemish past. This Old quarter of the city plays host to the majority of Lille’s bars, brassieres, bakeries and boutique delis, centred around rue d'Angleterre, place du Lion-d'Or and rue de la Monnaie. Although Lille’s population is around 220,000 and part of a wider urban metropolis stretching into Belgium, the city itself is charmingly quiet and relaxed.
Small enough that the historical sights of the fabulous Place du Charles de Gaulle, Notre-Dame de la Treille cathedral, and the stunning Palais des Beaux-Arts, a globally renowned art museum displaying some of the world's most awe-inspiring 15th -20th-century fine art, are within easy walking distance of each other. The newer half of the city, whose profoundly French architecture dates back to the mid 17th century, makes Lille a uniquely intriguing place to visit. The most immense structure of all is the pentagonal Citadel built to shield the city under the rule of France’s King Louis XIV, which nowadays is home to a beautiful park and the free Lille Zoo. Those looking to uncover a truly authentic side to the city should head for Wazemmes or the ‘working class’ district, host to Lille’s largest and most popular food market each Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday, Sunday being by far the busiest day so it’s a wise choice to get an early start. Why not follow as the locals do?
To get a true feel for this enchanting city, skip breakfast and lose yourself between the central market square and neighbouring boulevards lined with cafés, restaurants and street vendors sprawling from either side until it seems your passage is blocked with a mesmerising assortment of savoury, sweet and elegantly spiced delights with a distinctly North African feel; so fragrant and warming, perfect to stave off the early winter's chill. Lille’s bewitching depth of character and presence left me feeling that one day was enough to merely scratch the surface of what it has to offer. Yet at the same time I felt warmly content having had a wonderfully typical French meal set in a beautiful brasserie courtyard in the old part of the city, that the day was entirely fulfilled and that Lille would be a perfect destination for those looking for an incredible weekend discovering a city so unknown. Equally for those just passing through for a day, looking to uncover Lille’s uniquely blended culture steeped in history, filtered down to create what is fast becoming one of my favourite city break discoveries.
